Tecnologia da Moda e Engenharia Têxtil

Aesthetic Features of Peony Pattern in Chinese Silk in the Song Dynasty

Kangfu Zhang, Naraindra Kistamah* and Mingduan Fu  

Compared with the bold and unrestrained aesthetics of the Tang Dynasty, the social aesthetics in the Song Dynasty tend to more introverted and elegant and the cultural elements of auspiciousness, blessing, good fortune, prosperity and joyfulness become the characteristics of silk design and color. This article discusses color, theme and the cultural features of peony silk pattern in the Song Dynasty, and points out that the peony pattern in the Song Dynasty focuses on purity and gradual discoloration, and the overall tone tends to be light and soft. In the Song Dynasty, the designers inherited the pattern of the single flower and group flower from the Tang Dynasty, while the winding flower pattern developed into a new popular form of broken branch flower. The pattern tends to be decorative with exquisite details, representing wealth and elegance. In addition, the peony pattern integrates the theme of goodness and beauty, elegance and popularity. All these aesthetic features and cultural connotation of silk patterns show the national prosperity and individual happiness in the Song Dynasty, which reveals the inherent relationship between design and culture.